WANDERLUST @ DELHI - VII : HIDDEN TREASURES OF MEHRAULI

Jahaz Mahal (in Urdu language ‘Jahaz’ means "Ship" and ‘Mahal’ means "Palace", the "Ship Palace"), is located next to Hauz-i-Shamsi in Mehrauli, Delhi on its northeastern corner. It was so named, since its reflection (illusion) in the surrounding reservoir looked like a ship floating on a lake. It is inferred to have been built during the Lodi dynasty period (1452–1526) as a pleasure resort, Sarai or an inn.

The monument is built in a robust style typical of the pre-Mughal period- of granite rubble. It is probably because of this it has with stood the ravages of time pretty well. Presently it is very poorly maintained- though i saw an ASI board there. The magnificently named Hauz-i-Shamshi ("Lake of Sunlight") is a huge cess pool with only sewage and hyacinth growing in it. The magnificent monument screams silently seeking attention and preservation!

Zafar Mahal, is the ruined summer palace of the last Mughal Emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar II. 

Also known as Jangli Mahal, this structure is considered the last monumental structure built during the fading years of the Mughal era. The building has two components namely, the Mahal or the palace, which was built first by Akbar II in the 18th century, and the entrance gate that was reconstructed in the 19th century by Bahadur Shah Zafar II. The monument today is in a ruined state. Locals play cricket and gamble here. ASI had done a very little to preserve this monument

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The graves in the precincts of Zafar Mahal, built within a marble screen enclosure by Jahandar Shah for his father Bahadur Shah I and others who followed, is a minor reflection of the history of the place. Shah Alam II who had the misfortune of being blinded by Ghulam Qadir, the Rohilla leader was buried here. He was considered a "puppet ruler", first under the Marathas and later under the British. His son Akbar II was also buried here. Mirza Fakruddin son of the last emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar, who died early ushered the end of the Moghul regime, was also buried here. But Bahadur Shah Zafar who had identified the location for his grave (sardgha – the vacant land for burial) was the most unfortunate (ill fated) as he was deported to Rangoon and was buried there.

 Adham Khan's Tomb is the 16th-century tomb of Adham Khan, a general of the Mughal Emperor Akbar. He was the younger son of Maham Anga, Akbar's wet nurse thus also his foster brother. However, when Adham Khan murdered Akbar’s favourite general Ataga Khan in May 1561, Akbar immediately ordered his execution by defenestration from the ramparts of the Agra Fort.

The tomb was built in 1562, and lies to the north of the Qutub Minar, Mehrauli, Delhi, immediately before one reaches the town of Mehrauli, it is now a protected monument by Archaeological Survey of India- but is in a very poor state of maintenance. The tomb is opposite Mehrauli bus terminus and many passengers use it as a place to wait.

The Masjid was built between 1351-54 by Khan-i-Jahan Junan Shah, the prime minister of Feroz Shah Tughlaq, the third ruler of the Tughlaq dynasty in Delhi. Feroz Shah is known for his keen interest in architecture, especially mosques, and his patronage of several building and conservation projects. In his autobiography Futuhat-i-Firozshahi, he writes, “Among the many gifts which God bestowed upon me, his humble servant, was a desire to erect public buildings. So, I built many mosques and colleges and monasteries”.

The Khirki Masjid, which happens to be one of seven mosques built by Junan Shah, exhibits some unique features and architectural achievements of its time. Most prominent among them is its covered square plan as opposed to the typical open courtyard congregational mosque, and the fusion of local elements such as “jali” style windows with mosque architecture.

Moreover, because of the constant threat of Mongol invasion, almost all structures of that period, including mosques, had a military character such as tapering walls and turrets surmounted by crenellated parapets. The result is a unique mosque that looks like a fortress, or qila.

This monument is well preserved and we were happy to find an alert security guard placed there by ASI to safeguard it.

SIKKIM DIARIES: MESMERIZING KUPUP

The village of Kupup is situated at an altitude of 13000 feet provides breathtaking views of the famous Elephant Lake, which got the name from its shape that resembles an elephant. Locally known as Bitan Choo, the lake is surrounded by towering snow clad mountains on one side and a difficult to maintain 15 feet wide road carpeted with fresh snow on the sides and in between that provides the only route to reach Kupup via the lake. Kupup has a helipad primarily for military use. 

Another point of attraction in Kupup is the Yak Golf Course which is considered to be the highest golf course in the world. Me and Samyukta had the privilege to play there (and they give you a certificate saying that you played in the higest golf course in the world after that!) The magnificent Tukla Valley opens up as one crosses Gnathang Valley and Old Baba Mandir which commemorates the valiant sacrifice of an Indian soldier Harbhanjan Singh who lost his life during the relief and rescue operation of people affected by terrible landslides and floods in this part of the region in the year 1968. There is an old war memorial too in Gnathang which commemorates Col Younghusband’s famous expedition to Tibet in the  early 20^th Century.

A few houses dot the landscape on either side of this village as tyres wrapped in chains move in and out of this village with high degree of caution against possible slippage on the snow. There is another lake known as Menmecho lake, about 5 kms from Kupup and requires a possible diversion from the usual route that goes all the way to Nathula Pass.

WANDERLUST @ DELHI - VI : NATIONAL POLICE MEMORIAL

My last post was about the Mutiny Memorial. This article is about a memorial of a different kind- the National Police Memorial located in Chankyapuri, New Delhi- one of the latest additions to the already beautiful and rich architectural heritage of our amazing Capital City. (Location- https://goo.gl/maps/RkPbjEZ1nR7Fq7C29)

21 Oct every year is observed as Police Commemoration day in honour of 10 Policemen martyred in Hot Springs area of Ladakh by Chinese troops. The Prime Minister of India dedicated the National Police Memorial to the Nation on 21 Oct 2018. The complex is located at Kautilya Marg Chanakyapuri New Delhi. It is spread over an area of 6.12 acres and consists of an impressive 30 foot (9.1 metrea) tall and 238 tonne black granite central sculpture , a museum and Wall of Valour. It commemorates the 34,844 Policemen from all Central and state Police Forces of India who have laid

down their lives.

The entry to the Memorial is free. It is spread over a large area with beautiful ambiance. The newly built underground museum is an excellent place to visit with artifacts ,history, badges, books ,uniforms over the ages and is indeed well maintained. It is a real treat if you visit with children since it is very informative and creatively done. The wall of valour has names of all martyrs inscribed on it.

It is a must visit and a much better place to spend time rather that many other run of the mill tourist attractions in Delhi.

DAY TRIPPING @ UZBEKISTAN-I: THE MONUMENT OF COURAGE, TASHKENT - A SEMINAL SOVIET ERA EDIFICE

The monumental complex ‘Courage’ dedicated to the 1966 earthquake in Tashkent is one of the most significant monuments in Tashkent, the salubrious capital of Uzbekistan.

On 26 April 1966, at 5:24 a.m., an earthquake with a magnitude of 8.3 shook the city. The incredibly strong seismic shaking changed Tashkent"s appearance forever. Half of the city’s inhabitants were left without a roof over their heads and had to live in tents. The earthquake had had its epicentre at a depth of 10 km right under the central blocks of Tashkent, in about the place where the Monument of Courage was erected.

The Earthquake was a seminal moment in the city's history and this memorial draws attention to it in a very appropriate manner. It is visible from the main streets and a brief walk through the area will acquaint you with the earthquake story

Builders from all over the former USSR participated in the reconstruction of Tashkent. Several months after the first new houses were already able to receive the victims of the earthquake. Broad residential quarters sprang up on the outskirts of the capital, while the centre of the city saw its old destroyed buildings reconstructed and renovated.

A black labradorite cube with the date of 26 April 1966 inscribed on one of its sides is installed on a granite pedestal. Another side of the cube presents a clock, the hands of which show the time of 5:24. The cube is split by a crack symbolising the break of the earth and continuing to the foot of the statue,

The statue represents a woman embracing a child and a man trying to protect them with his breast from the strike of the nature. In the background of the monument there is a composition in relief telling about the restoration of Tashkent.

Truly worth a visit – when you travel to Tashkent!

WANDERLUST @ DELHI - V MUTINY MEMORIAL a.k.a AJIT GARH

Delhi Ridge, or simply 'The Ridge', is an extension of the ancient Aravalli Range and runs through the heart of the National Capital Territory (NCR) of Delhi. The Delhi Ridge covers a distance of about 35 km and refereed to as the green lung of Delhi and protects the city from the hot winds of the deserts of Rajasthan. 

It is divided into four zones. North Ridge or Kamala Nehru Ridge is one of the four zones. It is a hilly area near the Delhi University. It was declared a Reserve Forest in 1915. It initially covered an area of 170 hectares but have now shrunk to 87 hectares, making it the smallest of the four ridge zones if Delhi.

The North Ridge, officially known as the Kamala Nehru Ridge, houses an interesting mix of monuments. Scattered along the forested region of the ridge are monuments ranging from the Tughlaq era right up to  the days of the Mutiny.

The monument that stands out among the monuments of the ridge is the towering Mutiny Memorial. It is located at the site of Taylor’s Battery during the siege of Delhi in 1857. It was built in 1863. The Gothic styled red sand stone tapering tower rises from a two tiered platform.

 After the Mutiny of 1857 sites related to the Mutiny were preserved and turned into late Victorian tourist attractions. Monuments were erected all over the sub – continent in memory of the Britishers and Indian soldiers who fought for the British.

The Mutiny Memorial at North Ridge (Kamala Nehru Ridge) Delhi was the most prominent of the mutiny memorials of the sub continent. It holds a special place in the monuments created during the Raj in the sense that the the defence of the ridge by a small contingent of Indian and East India Company soldiers in 1857 against a overwhelmingly superior opponent was militarily a great feat and one of the first successes of the British, which eventually lead to the recapture of Delhi and deposition of the Mughal Emperor.

Built in Gothic style the Mutiny Memorial is a octagonal tapering tower in red sand stone. It has a richly ornamented facade and is crowned with a marble crucifix.

The four tiered tower stands on a two tiered platform and total height of the tower stands at 33 meters. Flights of stairs on all the four sides of the platform lead to the base of the tower. Entry inside the tower is through a gateway on its western wall and a flight of spiral stairways leads to the balconies on the four tiers.

But sadly the gate is kept under lock and key and thus preventing visitors access inside the tower and robbing them of the grand birds eye view of the lush green Kamala Nehru Ridge (North Ridge).

Apart from the gateway to the inside of the tower the other seven sides contain marble plaques embedded inside decorated sandstone archways. Three of them narrates the event in English, Hindi and Urdu. The English plaques says that the Memorial honours the soldiers of Delhi Field Force who died during the Mutiny of 1857.

Among the remaining four plaques one lists the regiments present during the siege of Delhi while the second one lists actions fought at or near Delhi. The remaining two plaques list the KILLED, WOUNDED and MISSING soldiers of the mutiny, which is again sub divide into sub categories like Europeans & Natives and Officers & Non Commissioned Officers.

On 15 August 1972 the Delhi’s Mutiny Memorial was renamed Ajitgarh (Place of the Unvanquished) and a plaque was put at its pedestal. Written in four languages Hindi, Urdu, English

It says that the “enemies” mentioned in the inscription were actually the freedom fighters and martyrs of India, who fought bravely against the repressive colonial rule in the First War of Indian Independence.

The monument which had gone to seed was majorly refurbished prior to the 2010 Commonwealth Games. The compound remains locked to the public but the security guard was kind enough to allow us in for sometime on request. Of course as I have mentioned above- the main building is locked and one cannot access the stairs.

The monument is well worth a visit- if not for anything else, it is unlike you will find of this scale in India- probably the most imposing monument of the Raj (if you exclude the later buildings built in Lutyens Delhi) and for the lovely drive on the lush green North Ridge.

WANDERLUST @ DELHI-IV: MANGAR BANI- THE SACRED GROVE

A beautiful valley amidst the ancient Aravalli Ranges, Mangar Bani is perhaps the last green patch between a polluted Delhi and a concrete Gurugram, that has been preserved by the local Gujjar community and attracts a lot of birds - indigenous and migratory.

The forest of Mangar Bani is said to be protected by the spirit of a local sage by the name of Gudariya Baba. Legend has it that several centuries ago, a hermit by the name of Gudariya Das Baba came to the village and attained enlightenment in a cave inside this forest. Thereafter, the word spread that curse would befall anyone who fells a tree, uses it to gather kindling or to feed their livestock. Even today, the villagers guard the forest zealously and not a single tree is cut, or even pruned.

Consequently, the forest is now home to leopards, bear, deer, civets and 90 species of butterfly, besides the rare species of birds and peacocks! The beautiful Dhau tree, that once grew wildly in Rajasthan and now is practically extinct, grows with abandon inside Bani. A temple dedicated to Gudariya Das Baba lies nestled in the heart of the forest and serves as a constant reminder to the villagers of the promise made and tradition kept.

There is a small samadhi (memorial) of the saint and also a cave on the hill side where the saint used to meditate.

WANDERLUST @ DELHI-III MALCHA MAHAL: THE MOST MYSERIOUS SITE IN DELHI

Located off Sardar Patel Marg, adjacent to the ISRO earth station on the South Ridge, Malcha Mahal is an old Tughlaq Era hunting lodge and does not boast of any great artitectural or historical significance as such. What it boasts of is a most unbeleivable story of tragedy and surrealism which goes right upto the 21st century- which could probably could happen only in India!

The place reeks for sadness, tragedy and mystery. SInce the last occupant Prince Riaz of Oudh passed away in 2017 after spending over 3 decades of splendid isolation with his mother and sister- the monument has gone back to seed.

It is supposed to be the most haunted site in Delhi and visits after susnset are actually banned by the police. The place is barricaded by Delhi Police and huge cacti which have grown over the years.

To know the unbelievable story of a dispocessed princess and her two princelings and thier life in splendid isolation in the hear of Delhi right upto 2017- you can do some further reading on the link below:-

https://www.thehindu.com/…/the-story-of…/article29766170.ece